Arrival in Pretoria

Well we are here in South Africa with our first week or so behind us. In some ways it feels like we left weeks ago and in other ways I feel as though we are barely settling in. Where to start? We definitely feel as though we stepped into a whole new world from the first moment we stepped off the plane. Thankfully towards the end of our 18 hour trip we all put on nice clothes as we were met at the door of the plane by a delegation and whisked through a special exit to a waiting escort vehicle – our first clue that things are going to be a bit different! We’re now getting used to, or at least for moments, this new lifestyle, which could not be more full of contrasts. I’m looking out my window at a scene that looks more like Beverly Hills than Africa: lovely green lawns and gardens with the city of Pretoria looking beautiful in the distance as the sun sets.




Yet, at the same moment, the Embassy has been on high alert due to street protests that have become violent to the point where all US mission personnel were sent home. And while this setting is serene, we are surrounded by about 10 forms of security: high walls, guard staff, electric fence, alarm system, radio to the Marine Post at the Embassy, etc. So, the contradictions abound!
We have been very warmly welcomed by the Embassy staff. We’ve spent most of our time with Americans and are looking forward to starting to meet South Africans. The Embassy community is very friendly. It is ironic that Don, who as you know is rumpled, informal and not status unconscious is now at the center of this very distinct culture: from getting into the elevator first to everyone calling him Sir or Mr Ambassador all the time. He has not yet been formally “credentialed” by the gov’t of SA, so he can’t yet work with South Africans, which is where his energy will eventually be focused. Now most of his meetings are with the various US gov’t agencies – getting a sense of the amazing scope of activities and issues this mission is involved with. I’ve joined him on a few briefings – today was Centers for Disease Control, which has a wide range of programs to combat AIDS and TB – both mind boggling crises here.



Our house is slowly starting to feel more like home. The downstairs is big and formal, but with lots of character. We spend most of our time upstairs, which is roomy and comfortable. We’ve had tons of people in and out – addressing everything from internet to hanging hooks. They pop up at anytime and it still surprises me when I mention something in an offhand manner and next thing I know someone is scurrying to fix it.



Yes, we are getting very spoiled – especially by Brenda (from Zimbabwe), Betty (SA mother of 4, whose 4 month old baby is also staying here) and Ronald (from Zambia). Together they manage this sprawling household and all of the events and activities. They have become indispensable as helpers and friends to me. Brenda is a simply amazing cook – I’m just not going to tell you all how amazing our gourmet dinners are, b/c it is darn right embarrassing by our normal standards. I’ve started running - given the caloric intake it seems worth the security risk! Actually, there are guards everywhere, so I feel very safe and our guards have taken to teasing me that I’m not running far enough. We’ve scaled down the fancy linen placemats and crystal every night to everyone’s relief! Our clothes are still a wonder to behold – everything gets ironed – included the boys t-shirts. We all have to pass the Betty test before we leave the house, making sure we are not too wrinkled….you can only imagine the stress we are causing this lovely woman!